monome

Update: reading over a couple other forums, one that sounds good to me is this, what do you think? "using a stranded piece of hookup cable, tin the very end and then cut the end to a tip. Insert this into the hole and apply heat, which should pick up the solder like a tiny piece of wick."

I have done the wick method before. Worked pretty well for me.
But I could see things going terribly wrong if you are not careful.
So proceed at your own risk I guess....

The wick method being the one in my second post? Yeah I guess I have options if I can't get it out, I've only soldered on about $2 of parts right now.

Oh, well if you are not breaking the bank if you fuck up then do the wick method.
You can also find a needle point soldering irons. Super fine tip that you can use to punch out solder in the through holes on pcbs.

'I have an idea, but it sounds like it could make it worse. Do you think it would work if I add more solder to the pad, such that it would turn the stuck piece molten as well, so I could insert my resistor? Don't think I have many more tries, the pad looks like it will need replacing if much more goes on with it.'

Ideally you'd use a solder sucker, but since you ain't got one, below will work fine.

If it is just a resistor that goes in this spot just preform/bend the legs to a 'U' shape as normal (maybe cut them back a little so they are shorter than normal), heat up the pad in question, and while keeping the soldering iron tip pad (so the pad is still molten) pop the one end of the resistor in. Then do the other end. Careful not to crack the original joint when pushing the other end in, then briefly reheat the original joint just to make sure. This might tak a few attempts at getting sitting right but will work fine.

The needle point irons look like this
http://www.turbokeu.com/mycomputer/antecfan/pict0059.jpg

Oh yeah, if you do damage the pad/track, just bridge it with a bit of wire/solder (you'll need to scrape off the pcb coating to expose the bare track).

Then just get some of your girlfriend's (silly me, you are part of the Monome community so ou probably don't have a girlfriend) nail polish and paint it over the exposed track.

Ok thanks guys, I'll give it in a try in just a sec. I do have a solder pump, but it's not working because like I said the solder is only inside the eyelet, not on the top. Will the solder melt if I heat the pad?

If the solder is in contact with the pad it should.

@joechip

Who says monomers don't have girlfriends? :P

Cool, will try in a sec and let you guys know.

And yeah, Joe, I do happen to have a girlfriend. Wether or not I met her at comic con is a different matter altogether haha.

I met my girlfriend in Sweden. But that's another story :P

Whew. Ok, so I managed to get the solder out of the eyelet using the wick method, but it just about ruined the pad. How can I go about getting that back?

Everyone recommend the method above, scraping off the green surface just a bit and bridge to the track?

If you completely messed up your pad then, yes, I would attach resistor directly to the track. Just be very slow and careful when you are exposing the track.
And also keep in mind that the joint won't be as good as it would have been before. So if you have any problems in the future with your device I would look at this joint in particular first.

HA. Well I guess the lucky thing here is that this particular resistor is one right before an output. So basically, theres 8 CV outputs (which I'm not sure I'll ever use all of them). So if it fails, it won't be that big of a deal. By the time I actually need all 8 CV modulation channels I'll have probably upgraded.

To clarify in case I don't find an article: I pulled up the green layer using an X-Acto knife. So do I lay the lead of the resistor in the track, bend it to keep it tight, and then solder it down like that? Or are we saying to slowly put solder back down on a ring to make an improtu pad?