Playstation 3 Controller (sixaxis or dualshock)

  • Attached is a quick "plug the PS3 controller into your computer and read it in Max" patch.

    Tested using USB (not wireless over bluetooth). That setup didn't actually work on my old computer; I had to install drivers for that and use it wirelessly. No idea. But assuming you're able to receive input from your controller, there's a ridiculous amount of stuff to play with.


    It reliably spits out the following info:

    ANALOG (0-255):
    * Left Stick (x, y)
    * Right Stick (x, y)
    * D-Pad (up, down, left, right)
    * face buttons (triangle, circle, x, square)
    * left bumpers (L1 and L2)
    * right bumpers (R1 and R2)

    (the analog sticks could easily be split into four 0-127 CCs, each. everything else, you'd probably want to divide the output by two if you're going MIDI with it)


    DIGITAL (0, 1)
    * D-Pad (up, down, left, right)
    * face buttons (triangle, circle, x, square)
    * left buttons (L1, L2, L3)
    * right buttons (R1, R2, R3)
    * select button
    * start button
    * playstation button

    All of which is demonstrated in the patch so you can start to derive meaningful interactions from there.



    If any of you are able, I would love some help figuring out:

    1) How does Tilt work? I've made as much sense as I can from their numbers.

    2) Can we trigger the DualShock's rumble features from Max? 'cause... haptics.

  • I'm using "tilt" a little too generally. We're talking about raw accelerometer data. Rotate the controller, the numbers change. Lift the controller, the numbers change. Move it sharply in any direction, the numbers change.

  • And, this is potentially outdated, but not promising on the rumble front:
    http://cycling74.com/forums/topic.php?id=27429

  • and each of the buttons is pressure sensitive :)

    having a lot of fun with my ps3 controller! but i haven' had time to update my old synth patch to use the new tilt and pressure sensitivity.

    as you said couldn't get that before using the tatieboogle driver. but now it's all native with osx lion and beyond.

    i'll have a look through my old patches and try and post one up if i get a chance.

  • sorry just reread your post.

    that's interesting as i get analog from more of the buttons. d-pad, face buttons, both bumper buttons.

    and i've also got it connecting over bluetooth, without the need for any drivers.

  • ok, still hungover and reread the post again. now it all makes sense you're right, you do get both analogue and digital for some.

  • quick mess around patch similar to yours, posting up as i did something with the tilt at the bottom, you might want to include.

  • I don't think folks understand or appreciate how usable the pressure sensitivity on every button actually is. Very smooth, very accurate, very easy to control several at once with your thumb.

    The downside is that visually, you are making very small movements that convey nothing to an audience.

  • Awesome. I will check out your patch later today.

    3am nap time.

  • Much impressed. That definitely helps.

  • While I haven't made any changes to my StikShift patch for a while, I'd consider it with the possibilities. Especially if it works wireless. Are you using it with a Mac or Windows (both are actually PCs no matter what anyone says)? The pressure sensitivity and selectable controls would make it nice. The nice thing about a traditional joystick, however, remains the ability to require only one hand for its use, thus leaving, for most people, one free hand to do other things, like play phone games with or eat a sandwich.

  • It at least tries to pair over bluetooth without any drivers, but I'm still not convinced that the HID object can find it without help. (on my old mac, I had to install something to bridge the gap) w/ USB, it's working like a dream.

    I don't know. Part of me wants to pass four wireless gamepads around the audience and let random people have a direct hand in the music. But I sort of feel like that labels you as "joystick guy" for the rest of your life.

    (do you suppose Gallagher regrets ever doing the sledge-o-matic bit?)

  • i had to do a little trick to get it to connect wirelessly on mac. it's documented online as it's the same routine for setting it up for gaming etc.

    you have to get it in the bluetooth preferences list as a favourite, but not paired! at least i couldn't get mine to pair as you need to type in a code, obviously ps3 cannot display the code in anyway, and 0000, 1234, other obvious ones don't work.

    however, now it's favourited in bluetooth prefs i just push the ps3 button and it pops up and starts working!

    off the top of my head, had to plug it in via usb, press the PS3 button in the middle, go into bluetooth preferences, select it and click to favourite it before it comes up with the pairing business.

  • Very cool.

    Side note: As much as I love my dualshock 3 controllers, I think I'm going to order one of the older sixaxis ones for computer use. I'd recommend that for Shimoda as well.

    pro: it's $5 cheaper, weighs less, and the battery lasts significantly longer.

    con: it doesn't support the rumble feature.

    ...but it doesn't sound like we were ever going to make rumble work in our patches anyway.

    (a damned shame. if you've got a joystick ensemble going, that's a great way to signal the other performers)

  • I am rubbish with max stuff and have very limited knowledge. Got my controller paired but can't seem to get working with any apps. Any basic step by step for this monome user? ;-)

  • Wirelessly paired which was a result

  • So, you've opened my maxpat, or the one Myr posted, and nothing is happening?

    (with mine, you should see some sort of simple indicator each time you do anything. Myr's, if you scroll down, you should see cross-hairs that you control with tilt)

    If those things aren't happening, you're at the "extra steps are needed" phase, which Myr knows more of than I do. (again, I just use the USB cable. keeps things simple)

    If those things -are- happening, you're at the "can someone write an app to do _____?" phase.

    (your DAW doesn't automatically map to joysticks like it does to MIDI devices, so you'll probably want something to convert the joystick data into MIDI data and pipe that into your DAW. or something)

  • Picked up the Playstation Move Navigation controller. Which is not the one with the LED ball, but it's accessory, perhaps analogous to a wii nun-chuck.

    It's effectively half a PS3 controller. Sits comfortably in either hand, has one analog stick, a pair of bumpers, a mini d-pad, and half of the face buttons. I believe it also sends tilt.

    Not sure if the buttons and d-pad are pressure sensitive, but the ergonomics might be more stage-friendly than the actual controller, as it leaves one hand free for other gear.

    And as an added bonus, it looks enough like a dildo to cause funny looks at the airport.

  • Playstation move's Navigation Controller shows up in the HID drop-down, but polling it doesn't appear to produce any data at all. Is it waiting for an activation signal from the PS3? More research required.


    Side note:
    I'm toying with the idea of trying to build a Max External to send "rumble" data back to the dual shock or LED color info to a Playstation Move controller, but my ideas for how to use those aren't really strong enough to justify the effort yet.

  • Hello, I am a noob at Max, and am trying to use the above patch, but it keeps saying I need Ilok drivers. Any advice? Thank you

  • Sorry for the *very* late reply...


    ilock is a physical DRM protection device. A dongle. I don't know if cycling 74 makes use of it in max/msp, but my copy was purchased and registered successfully without that.

    To the best of my knowledge, nothing specific to this patch is built on any externals or plug-ins which might possibly require that.

    That error isn't triggered *exclusively when you try to implement the above patch*, is it?

    If yes... no clue.

    If no... it sounds like you might be running a pirated copy of max, or an expired trial. If so, my advice is to stop that. Otherwise, I'd advise contacting cycling74 about whatever went wrong in authorizing your max license.

  • I'm replying on my phone, and can't really tell:
    is there actually an "above patch" anymore, or did the forum changeover of forever ago eat an important file attachment whose absence renders this discussion moot?

  • iLock is an authorisation option for max. You have to sign up for it, and it's irreversible. The advantage is machine independence (good for installations). I've got for Max 4. I think the driver's a bit fragile and didn't adopt it for later releases.