now selling replacement keypads

  • we've gotten several requests for replacement 40h keypads, so we had some made. we also have small keypads for production units available.

    you probably don't need these, but there are some cases where you might.

    read more at the link below. ordering link at the end.

    http://monome.org/docs/tech:hardware:keypad


    ps. please e-mail me if the shipping rates are messed up.

  • shipping costs fixed, for all of you scared away by $120 shipping

  • Not to hijack this thread, but should UPS ground for the Aleph still be over forty bucks?

    (Edit: should I be whining about forty bucks when the thing costs fourteen hundred already? LOL)

  • insurance on these is annoyingly expensive. most ground is cheaper than $40, but i just adjusted the cost slightly downwards-- these are calculated directly by UPS but don't include insurance, so we add a percentage.

  • Incase anyone is annoyed by insurance:

    my 256 was stolen in the mail before it got to me, tehn had to send me another and file a claim. Insurance is a good thing.

  • i've always struggled with my keypad making a connection with the board. I've cleaned them, talced them, got a new faceplate and even lightly sanded down the black rubber ring to even/level out any bumps. I still find their responsiveness sub-par. i'm out of solutions and just frustrated with this expensive lightboard.

    are there other people struggling with their kit/mk keypads?

  • what size grid are you using for the mk? which firmware?

  • 256, not sure how to answer about the firmware.

  • are you using 40h boards or mk boards? i recently tuned the firmware. attached is the mk version.

  • do i fully want to follow the instructions found here: http://monome.org/docs/tech:mk:flash

    or is there a simpler way (avoiding opening the monome and doing the "activate boot loader" section?

  • must activate bootloader sorry to say.

  • IT WORKS, sooo much better. it's so hard to believe after these couple of years struggling to figure out why.... thanks for the rewritten firmware.

  • Tehns new keypads are like magic. I never thought i'd say something like this, but whatever you're doing, Brian, you've really designed the best silicone keypads i've used. kind of a funny thing to be pushing the envelope on, but nothing comes close to that new batch!

  • I've just received a set of keypads for my 2008 40h kit. It came straight through the letter box: cheers Brian! A noticeable improvement: I can do fast light finger work and it registers most of it. I can never quite do a full 64 keys and get them all to toggle (just blipping each one quickly and regularly) so maybe I need to go back and have another clean, though every thing is pretty squeaky inside.

    I trimmed the mating edges of the silicone. Straight out of the box, the quadrants individually drop into my face plate, but all together, they interfere with each other. Scalpel and steel edge work means they all drop in, so they're not pushing each other outwards.

    Talcum powder makes a great improvement on the feel and action, but takes ages to get off the little black pills.

    What to do with the old ones? Maybe hack them, or put adhesive copper tape rings on them?

    @tehn - are they compatible with SparkFun boards? Also, you mention roughing them up a bit elsewhere; what's the thinking behind that?

    edit: @tehn - is there a firmware upgrade I should be considering for this? It's got the same as you sent in '08

  • i think there might be some confusion with the talcum powder — it's best to apply this once the boards & buttons are already attached to the faceplate (everything except the outer enclosure). otherwise you'll get talc on the conductive pills which i imagine greatly reduces their conductivity.

    if there's talc on the pills it's probably best to take them off and rinse with water. dry. reassemble. lightly talc the top of the plate & blow off any excess.

  • 40h kits only had one firmware. there's a chance it could be tuned-- it's on github-- which would probably just mean tweaking timing constants and debouncing stages and trying it for feel. i have so many grids around, i'd have to dig for some time to find a working 40h.

  • @galapagoose - d'oh. That makes sense, although you'd want to be confident there was enough clearance round the buttons to allow this. Interesting to note on another thread, that the tightness of the bolts holding the PCB and keypads to the faceplate makes a big difference too.

    @tehn - Thanks for clearing that up. I may want to get the appropriate programmer for the atmel for other projects (e.g. flashing a second Where's The Party At chip), so in the longer run, I may have a look at that option. My first software priority is to get the four ADCs working again, which requires a tweak of the monome.dll as I recall.

  • Is there a breakout PCB available that will fit the production pads? I'm looking into building my own 128 but one of the main things I don't like about the kits/arduinomes is the bigger buttons.

  • there are no available breakout pcbs, sorry!

  • @RyanGlassman - check out the new Trellis keypads from Adafruit, I'm not sure the exact dimension difference from the monome but the PCBs end up being 12cmx12cm, much smaller than the sparkfun pads (which are 20cmx20cm). It's still being worked on as a monome clone though, check it out here: http://monome.org/community/discussion/17198/trellis-another-diy-keypad

    edit: whoops I just realized that's for a 64 button pad, each PCB is 6cmx6cm (or 10cmx10cm) but they are soldered together